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		<title><![CDATA[Motobuys Forum - Parts]]></title>
		<link>https://forum.motobuys.com/</link>
		<description><![CDATA[Motobuys Forum - https://forum.motobuys.com]]></description>
		<pubDate>Fri, 09 Oct 2026 01:59:49 +0000</pubDate>
		<generator>MyBB</generator>
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			<title><![CDATA[1985 Honda CB700SC vs 1986 Yamaha FZX700 Fazer... which one for a project?]]></title>
			<link>https://forum.motobuys.com/showthread.php?tid=651343</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 07 Oct 2026 06:00:27 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://forum.motobuys.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=18618">MotoMike</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://forum.motobuys.com/showthread.php?tid=651343</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[So I've got a line on two 80s bikes and I can only pick one, need some opinions from folks who've actually ridden or wrenched on either. First is a 1985 Honda Nighthawk S, the 700 with the shaft drive and hydraulic valves. Second is a 1986 Yamaha FZX700 Fazer, the one with the 5 valve Genesis engine and the weird 16 inch front wheel.<br />
Both are non runners, both need carbs gone through, both have been sitting. The Honda looks cleaner and shaft drive is one less thing to deal with. But that Fazer engine is supposed to be an absolute ripper and I kind of want something weird and different.<br />
Anyone here owned either? Parts availability on the Fazer worries me a little, seems like the 16 inch front tire is getting hard to find. And I know the Nighthawk has that known issue with the cam chain tensioner. Just trying to figure out which one is less of a headache long term and more fun once sorted. Appreciate any input.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[So I've got a line on two 80s bikes and I can only pick one, need some opinions from folks who've actually ridden or wrenched on either. First is a 1985 Honda Nighthawk S, the 700 with the shaft drive and hydraulic valves. Second is a 1986 Yamaha FZX700 Fazer, the one with the 5 valve Genesis engine and the weird 16 inch front wheel.<br />
Both are non runners, both need carbs gone through, both have been sitting. The Honda looks cleaner and shaft drive is one less thing to deal with. But that Fazer engine is supposed to be an absolute ripper and I kind of want something weird and different.<br />
Anyone here owned either? Parts availability on the Fazer worries me a little, seems like the 16 inch front tire is getting hard to find. And I know the Nighthawk has that known issue with the cam chain tensioner. Just trying to figure out which one is less of a headache long term and more fun once sorted. Appreciate any input.]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Finally upgrading my gear after 15 years, need advice]]></title>
			<link>https://forum.motobuys.com/showthread.php?tid=651338</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 07 Oct 2026 00:00:22 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://forum.motobuys.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=18618">MotoMike</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://forum.motobuys.com/showthread.php?tid=651338</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[So I've been riding in the same beat up leather jacket since 2009 and my helmet is honestly way past its expiry. My wife finally convinced me to spend some money on myself for once so here I am.<br />
Looking at getting a proper textile jacket with armor, maybe something that vents for summer. Budget is around 300 bucks, could stretch a bit more if its really worth it. Also need a new helmet, mine is a Shoei from like 2011 so anything modern will probably feel like a spaceship.<br />
Main question is do you guys trust the cheaper brands like Sedici or is it worth paying for the big names? I ride mostly backroads and some commuting, no track days. I'm in the northeast so I need something that handles rain and cold mornings.<br />
Any recommendations would be great. I've been out of the gear game so long I don't even know where to start.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[So I've been riding in the same beat up leather jacket since 2009 and my helmet is honestly way past its expiry. My wife finally convinced me to spend some money on myself for once so here I am.<br />
Looking at getting a proper textile jacket with armor, maybe something that vents for summer. Budget is around 300 bucks, could stretch a bit more if its really worth it. Also need a new helmet, mine is a Shoei from like 2011 so anything modern will probably feel like a spaceship.<br />
Main question is do you guys trust the cheaper brands like Sedici or is it worth paying for the big names? I ride mostly backroads and some commuting, no track days. I'm in the northeast so I need something that handles rain and cold mornings.<br />
Any recommendations would be great. I've been out of the gear game so long I don't even know where to start.]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Best routes for a long road trip? Planning a 2 week ride]]></title>
			<link>https://forum.motobuys.com/showthread.php?tid=651250</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 03 Oct 2026 18:00:15 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://forum.motobuys.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=15369">moto Expert</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://forum.motobuys.com/showthread.php?tid=651250</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[So I've been turning wrenches for over 15 years now and I finally got two full weeks off this summer. Planning a proper road trip on my old FZ1, probably 3000+ miles. I've done plenty of short weekend runs but never anything this long.<br />
Question for the guys who actually tour: what routes do you swear by? I'm thinking of heading out west, maybe hitting the Blue Ridge Parkway first then working toward Colorado. But I'm open to anything. I care more about good pavement and fun curves than scenery, though both is fine.<br />
Also any advice on keeping the bike happy over that many miles would help. I know what to check before I leave but curious what you all do for mid trip maintenance. Oil top offs, chain adjustments, that kind of thing. I'll probably do an oil change somewhere around the halfway point if I can find a shop or bring what I need.<br />
Appreciate any route suggestions or general long haul wisdom.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[So I've been turning wrenches for over 15 years now and I finally got two full weeks off this summer. Planning a proper road trip on my old FZ1, probably 3000+ miles. I've done plenty of short weekend runs but never anything this long.<br />
Question for the guys who actually tour: what routes do you swear by? I'm thinking of heading out west, maybe hitting the Blue Ridge Parkway first then working toward Colorado. But I'm open to anything. I care more about good pavement and fun curves than scenery, though both is fine.<br />
Also any advice on keeping the bike happy over that many miles would help. I know what to check before I leave but curious what you all do for mid trip maintenance. Oil top offs, chain adjustments, that kind of thing. I'll probably do an oil change somewhere around the halfway point if I can find a shop or bring what I need.<br />
Appreciate any route suggestions or general long haul wisdom.]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Buying a used bike with high mileage - what's actually too much?]]></title>
			<link>https://forum.motobuys.com/showthread.php?tid=651163</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 02 Oct 2026 06:00:44 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://forum.motobuys.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=15369">moto Expert</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://forum.motobuys.com/showthread.php?tid=651163</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Been wrenching on bikes for 15+ years and I keep seeing the same question pop up. Guy finds a deal on a bike with 60k on the clock and panics. Honestly mileage alone doesn't scare me much. What matters is how it was maintained and what kind of miles those were. Highway commuter miles at 60k can be way healthier than 15k of track days and clutch dumps. First thing I check is the valve clearance history, then compression, then listen to the cam chain. If the owner kept receipts and did oil changes on time, high mileage is fine. What kills used bikes is neglect and sitting, not the number on the odometer. So what's your cutoff? Do you walk away at a certain mileage or do you judge each bike on its own? Curious what you all look for when you're kicking tires on a private sale.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Been wrenching on bikes for 15+ years and I keep seeing the same question pop up. Guy finds a deal on a bike with 60k on the clock and panics. Honestly mileage alone doesn't scare me much. What matters is how it was maintained and what kind of miles those were. Highway commuter miles at 60k can be way healthier than 15k of track days and clutch dumps. First thing I check is the valve clearance history, then compression, then listen to the cam chain. If the owner kept receipts and did oil changes on time, high mileage is fine. What kills used bikes is neglect and sitting, not the number on the odometer. So what's your cutoff? Do you walk away at a certain mileage or do you judge each bike on its own? Curious what you all look for when you're kicking tires on a private sale.]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Every year I see guys kill their bikes over winter, here's what actually matters]]></title>
			<link>https://forum.motobuys.com/showthread.php?tid=651095</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 01 Oct 2026 00:00:19 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://forum.motobuys.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=15369">moto Expert</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://forum.motobuys.com/showthread.php?tid=651095</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Been wrenching on bikes for 15+ years now and every spring I get the same calls. Bike won't start, carbs are gummed up, battery's dead. 90% of it comes down to winter storage mistakes.<br />
Couple things that actually matter. First, fuel. If you're storing carbed, drain the bowls or run it dry. E10 gas turns to varnish in like 3 months and you'll be pulling jets in April. Fuel injected, fill the tank to the brim with stabilizer, less air space means less condensation.<br />
Battery, pull it and keep it on a tender somewhere that doesn't freeze. Cold kills them. Don't just leave it in the bike on the ground.<br />
Oil change before storage, not after. Used oil has acids in it that sit against your bearings all winter.<br />
And please, put a rag in the intake and exhaust if you've got mice around. Learned that one the hard way, chewed up an airbox filter and nested in the pipe.<br />
What's everyone else doing?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Been wrenching on bikes for 15+ years now and every spring I get the same calls. Bike won't start, carbs are gummed up, battery's dead. 90% of it comes down to winter storage mistakes.<br />
Couple things that actually matter. First, fuel. If you're storing carbed, drain the bowls or run it dry. E10 gas turns to varnish in like 3 months and you'll be pulling jets in April. Fuel injected, fill the tank to the brim with stabilizer, less air space means less condensation.<br />
Battery, pull it and keep it on a tender somewhere that doesn't freeze. Cold kills them. Don't just leave it in the bike on the ground.<br />
Oil change before storage, not after. Used oil has acids in it that sit against your bearings all winter.<br />
And please, put a rag in the intake and exhaust if you've got mice around. Learned that one the hard way, chewed up an airbox filter and nested in the pipe.<br />
What's everyone else doing?]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Best backroad route from Denver to Moab? Avoiding I-70 if possible]]></title>
			<link>https://forum.motobuys.com/showthread.php?tid=651038</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 29 Sep 2026 18:00:54 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://forum.motobuys.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=18618">MotoMike</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://forum.motobuys.com/showthread.php?tid=651038</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[So I've got a week off next month and I'm finally doing the Denver to Moab run on my Versys 650. Everyone keeps telling me to just slab it on I-70 but whats the fun in that. Looking for suggestions on the scenic backway routes, thinking maybe down through Grand Junction via some of the smaller highways instead. Anybody done this run before? Curious about fuel stops too since some of those stretches look pretty empty on the map. Also hows the weather looking around late May, dont wanna get caught in snow up in the higher passes. Appreciate any tips from folks whos ridden it.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[So I've got a week off next month and I'm finally doing the Denver to Moab run on my Versys 650. Everyone keeps telling me to just slab it on I-70 but whats the fun in that. Looking for suggestions on the scenic backway routes, thinking maybe down through Grand Junction via some of the smaller highways instead. Anybody done this run before? Curious about fuel stops too since some of those stretches look pretty empty on the map. Also hows the weather looking around late May, dont wanna get caught in snow up in the higher passes. Appreciate any tips from folks whos ridden it.]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Buying a used bike with "just rebuilt engine" – how much should I trust that?]]></title>
			<link>https://forum.motobuys.com/showthread.php?tid=650920</link>
			<pubDate>Sun, 27 Sep 2026 06:01:03 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://forum.motobuys.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=15369">moto Expert</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://forum.motobuys.com/showthread.php?tid=650920</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Been looking at a 2006 CBR600RR on marketplace, guy says engine was rebuilt 3000km ago, new pistons, bearings, the works. Receipts from a shop but he won't name which one. Alarm bells or normal? I've done my share of rebuilds and my rule of thumb is unless there's documentation showing torque specs, clearances, and who did the machine work, you're basically buying a mystery box. He wants top dollar too because of the "fresh motor". Curious what you guys do in this situation. Do you walk away or lowball and factor in a potential teardown? Also any tips for checking compression numbers on a cold vs warm engine when the seller won't let you get it properly hot?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Been looking at a 2006 CBR600RR on marketplace, guy says engine was rebuilt 3000km ago, new pistons, bearings, the works. Receipts from a shop but he won't name which one. Alarm bells or normal? I've done my share of rebuilds and my rule of thumb is unless there's documentation showing torque specs, clearances, and who did the machine work, you're basically buying a mystery box. He wants top dollar too because of the "fresh motor". Curious what you guys do in this situation. Do you walk away or lowball and factor in a potential teardown? Also any tips for checking compression numbers on a cold vs warm engine when the seller won't let you get it properly hot?]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Planning a long haul on my old FJR, any route advice?]]></title>
			<link>https://forum.motobuys.com/showthread.php?tid=650874</link>
			<pubDate>Sat, 26 Sep 2026 12:00:48 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://forum.motobuys.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=15369">moto Expert</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://forum.motobuys.com/showthread.php?tid=650874</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[So I've got a 2007 FJR1300 that I've been slowly bringing back to life over the winter. Fresh valve adjustment, new chain and sprockets, cooling system flushed. She's running sweet now and I want to put some real miles on her this summer.<br />
Thing is I've mostly done day rides and short weekend stuff. Thinking about a proper 2-3 week trip, maybe 4000 miles or so. Not sure where to point the front wheel yet. I'm in the midwest so everything is a haul to get to the good roads.<br />
For those of you who do long trips, how do you plan routes? Do you map out every fuel stop or just wing it? I'm a bit paranoid about running out in the middle of nowhere on a bike that gets maybe 40mpg loaded down.<br />
Also curious what you all do for maintenance on the road. I can do an oil change in a hotel parking lot if I have to but wondering if there's stuff I should check daily that I'm not thinking about.<br />
Appreciate any wisdom from the guys who've been doing this longer than me.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[So I've got a 2007 FJR1300 that I've been slowly bringing back to life over the winter. Fresh valve adjustment, new chain and sprockets, cooling system flushed. She's running sweet now and I want to put some real miles on her this summer.<br />
Thing is I've mostly done day rides and short weekend stuff. Thinking about a proper 2-3 week trip, maybe 4000 miles or so. Not sure where to point the front wheel yet. I'm in the midwest so everything is a haul to get to the good roads.<br />
For those of you who do long trips, how do you plan routes? Do you map out every fuel stop or just wing it? I'm a bit paranoid about running out in the middle of nowhere on a bike that gets maybe 40mpg loaded down.<br />
Also curious what you all do for maintenance on the road. I can do an oil change in a hotel parking lot if I have to but wondering if there's stuff I should check daily that I'm not thinking about.<br />
Appreciate any wisdom from the guys who've been doing this longer than me.]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Finally got my full license at 43, here's what actually helped me pass]]></title>
			<link>https://forum.motobuys.com/showthread.php?tid=650656</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 23 Sep 2026 06:00:43 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://forum.motobuys.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=18618">MotoMike</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://forum.motobuys.com/showthread.php?tid=650656</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Bit of a late bloomer here. Rode around on a CBT and a 125 for way too long because life got in the way, then finally booked my full test this spring. I was proper nervous, hadn't done a proper test since school.<br />
What actually helped: I did two hours with an instructor just on slow speed stuff, the U-turn and the figure of eight. Everyone talks about road riding but that's where I kept dropping marks in practice. Also watched a ton of those Mod 1 walkthrough videos, the ones where they film the actual test centre. Sounds daft but knowing the exact layout of my local centre calmed me right down.<br />
Passed first time with 2 minors. If you're putting it off, just book it. Worst bit is waiting, not the test itself. Anyone else leave it ages before going for the full licence?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Bit of a late bloomer here. Rode around on a CBT and a 125 for way too long because life got in the way, then finally booked my full test this spring. I was proper nervous, hadn't done a proper test since school.<br />
What actually helped: I did two hours with an instructor just on slow speed stuff, the U-turn and the figure of eight. Everyone talks about road riding but that's where I kept dropping marks in practice. Also watched a ton of those Mod 1 walkthrough videos, the ones where they film the actual test centre. Sounds daft but knowing the exact layout of my local centre calmed me right down.<br />
Passed first time with 2 minors. If you're putting it off, just book it. Worst bit is waiting, not the test itself. Anyone else leave it ages before going for the full licence?]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Instructor told me to counterweight the pegs, not countersteer. Now I'm confused]]></title>
			<link>https://forum.motobuys.com/showthread.php?tid=650588</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 22 Sep 2026 12:00:07 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://forum.motobuys.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=15369">moto Expert</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://forum.motobuys.com/showthread.php?tid=650588</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[So I've been riding for years but finally took an advanced course last weekend to knock some bad habits. The instructor kept saying "counterweight the pegs" through the corners instead of talking about countersteering at all. I get that at low speed you weight the outside peg, that part makes sense. But at 60-70 kmh he was still telling me to shift weight to the outside peg and lean the bike more than my body. Honestly it worked, the bike felt planted and I was carrying more speed than usual. But I always thought countersteering was the main thing at speed and body position was secondary. Is this just a different school of thought or am I missing something? Any instructors or track guys here who can clear this up? I don't want to unlearn something useful but I also don't want to build a bad foundation.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[So I've been riding for years but finally took an advanced course last weekend to knock some bad habits. The instructor kept saying "counterweight the pegs" through the corners instead of talking about countersteering at all. I get that at low speed you weight the outside peg, that part makes sense. But at 60-70 kmh he was still telling me to shift weight to the outside peg and lean the bike more than my body. Honestly it worked, the bike felt planted and I was carrying more speed than usual. But I always thought countersteering was the main thing at speed and body position was secondary. Is this just a different school of thought or am I missing something? Any instructors or track guys here who can clear this up? I don't want to unlearn something useful but I also don't want to build a bad foundation.]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Stuck float bowl screw on an old CB360, any tricks?]]></title>
			<link>https://forum.motobuys.com/showthread.php?tid=650567</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 22 Sep 2026 06:01:01 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://forum.motobuys.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=18618">MotoMike</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://forum.motobuys.com/showthread.php?tid=650567</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[So I'm tearing into the carbs on my 74 CB360 project and one of the float bowl screws is completely rounded off. Previous owner must've gone at it with a wrong size driver and just chewed it up. I've tried the rubber band trick and a little penetrating oil but no luck yet. Before I drill it out I figured I'd ask you guys. Anyone had luck with a left hand drill bit on these soft screws? Also thinking about hitting it with a bit of heat but worried about melting anything in the carb body. This bike sat for like 8 years so everything is stuck. Any advice appreciated, I'd rather not destroy the bowl if I can help it!]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[So I'm tearing into the carbs on my 74 CB360 project and one of the float bowl screws is completely rounded off. Previous owner must've gone at it with a wrong size driver and just chewed it up. I've tried the rubber band trick and a little penetrating oil but no luck yet. Before I drill it out I figured I'd ask you guys. Anyone had luck with a left hand drill bit on these soft screws? Also thinking about hitting it with a bit of heat but worried about melting anything in the carb body. This bike sat for like 8 years so everything is stuck. Any advice appreciated, I'd rather not destroy the bowl if I can help it!]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[İstatistik mi, Hissiyat mı?]]></title>
			<link>https://forum.motobuys.com/showthread.php?tid=643040</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 12 Nov 2025 09:42:57 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://forum.motobuys.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=15074">wirerettes</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://forum.motobuys.com/showthread.php?tid=643040</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Bazen sayılar mantıklı olsa bile içgüdüm tersini söylüyor. Hangisine inanacağımı bilemiyorum artık. Birkaç kez hissiyatımı dinleyince kazandım, birkaç kez de fena kaybettim. Böyle anlarda siz veriye mi yoksa sezgiye mi güveniyorsunuz? Belki de dengeyi bulmak en doğrusu.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Bazen sayılar mantıklı olsa bile içgüdüm tersini söylüyor. Hangisine inanacağımı bilemiyorum artık. Birkaç kez hissiyatımı dinleyince kazandım, birkaç kez de fena kaybettim. Böyle anlarda siz veriye mi yoksa sezgiye mi güveniyorsunuz? Belki de dengeyi bulmak en doğrusu.]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[Capital Budget Verification]]></title>
			<link>https://forum.motobuys.com/showthread.php?tid=642416</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 11 Nov 2025 16:19:09 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://forum.motobuys.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=15074">wirerettes</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://forum.motobuys.com/showthread.php?tid=642416</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Our development model includes several cost categories that often shift after schematic design. The adjustments make lender reporting difficult because early assumptions lack validation. We’re testing new frameworks to track capital budget certainty across phases. How do you verify construction cost assumptions before financing approval? A consistent process would help maintain investor confidence.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Our development model includes several cost categories that often shift after schematic design. The adjustments make lender reporting difficult because early assumptions lack validation. We’re testing new frameworks to track capital budget certainty across phases. How do you verify construction cost assumptions before financing approval? A consistent process would help maintain investor confidence.]]></content:encoded>
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			<title><![CDATA[U4GM: What Are Resonances in Last Epoch: Golden and Obsidian Resonances Explained]]></title>
			<link>https://forum.motobuys.com/showthread.php?tid=141697</link>
			<pubDate>Mon, 02 Jun 2025 08:07:32 +0000</pubDate>
			<dc:creator><![CDATA[<a href="https://forum.motobuys.com/member.php?action=profile&uid=5695">Smsnaker235</a>]]></dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="false">https://forum.motobuys.com/showthread.php?tid=141697</guid>
			<description><![CDATA[Last Epoch, the action RPG developed by Eleventh Hour Games, boasts a deep and complex crafting system. Among its many intricacies are Resonances, a crucial element for upgrading your gear and pushing your build to its limits. Understanding Golden and Obsidian Resonances is paramount to mastering the crafting nuances of Last Epoch.<br />
<br />
What are Resonances in Last Epoch?<br />
<br />
Resonances are crafting materials in Last Epoch that play a key role in upgrading the tier of your item's affixes. Affixes are the magical properties that grant bonuses to your character, such as increased health, damage, or elemental resistances. Each affix has a tier ranging from 1 to 5, with higher tiers providing stronger benefits. Resonances are the engine driving this progression.<br />
<br />
Golden Resonance: Focusing on Specific Affix Types<br />
<br />
Golden Resonances are specialized crafting materials primarily used to target specific categories of affixes on your equipment. They are invaluable for players looking to fine-tune their gear to complement their particular build.<br />
<br />
What Golden Resonance Does: When used in the Forge, Golden Resonance grants a significantly higher chance to increase the tier of a specific type of affix while decreasing the chance for other types.<br />
When to Use Golden Resonance: The ideal time to use Golden Resonances is when you are trying to upgrade a specific affix category on an item that already has several affixes you want to keep. For example, if you have a chest piece with desirable health, resistance, and armor affixes, but want to improve the health affix further, applying a Golden Resonance focused on health will increase your chances of success without risking the other affixes as much.<br />
How to Obtain Golden Resonance: Golden Resonances are typically obtained as drops from enemies or rewards from specific activities within Last Epoch. Certain areas or enemy types might have a higher drop rate for specific Golden Resonances. Keep an eye on community resources and guides as the game evolves to identify the most efficient farming methods.<br />
Obsidian Resonance: Risk and Reward for High-Tier Affixes<br />
<br />
Obsidian Resonances offer a high-risk, high-reward approach to crafting. They are specifically designed to target higher-tier affixes, those already at Tier 4 or 5, offering a significant boost in upgrade chance but with a notable downside.<br />
<br />
What Obsidian Resonance Does: Obsidian Resonance significantly increases the chance of improving a Tier 4 or Tier 5 affix on an item. However, along with this increased chance comes the risk of downgrading other affixes present on the item.<br />
When to Use Obsidian Resonance: Obsidian Resonances are best used on items where you absolutely need to upgrade a specific Tier 4 or Tier 5 affix, and you are willing to risk the potential loss of progress on other affixes to achieve that goal. This is typically a strategy employed late in the endgame when you are trying to perfect a near-perfect piece of gear. Using Obsidian Resonance carelessly could lead to a major setback, so caution is advised.<br />
How to Obtain Obsidian Resonance: Similar to Golden Resonances, Obsidian Resonances are usually found as drops from enemies or through specific endgame activities. Due to their powerful effect, they are generally rarer than other types of Resonances. Consider that obtaining Last Epoch Gold could allow you to simply purchase these Resonances and attempt crafting.<br />
<br />
Strategic Use of Resonances<br />
<br />
Mastering the use of Resonances is key to crafting powerful and optimized gear in Last Epoch. Don't be afraid to experiment and learn through trial and error. Here are some general tips:<br />
<br />
Plan Your Crafting: Prior to utilizing any Resonance, reflect on the affixes you wish to enhance and the associated risks involved.<br />
Start with Common Resonances: Employ common Resonances to elevate affixes to Tier 3 or 4 before contemplating the use of Golden or Obsidian Resonances.<br />
Utilize Golden Resonance for Targeted Upgrades: Apply Golden Resonance when you have particular affix categories that you aim to improve.<br />
Use Obsidian Resonance Sparingly: Reserve the use of Obsidian Resonance for instances where you are prepared to accept the risk of downgrading other affixes in exchange for the possibility of a substantial upgrade.<br />
Consider the Cost: Take into account the expense of obtaining the Resonances. At times, it may prove more effective to simply locate or purchase a new item rather than attempting to refine an existing one.<br />
Consult Resources: The Last Epoch community is abundant with seasoned players who share their crafting techniques and insights. Make use of these resources to gain knowledge from others.<br />
<br />
By understanding the nuances of Golden and Obsidian Resonances, you can significantly improve your crafting efficiency and create powerful gear that will help you conquer the challenges of Last Epoch. <br />
<br />
Safe and cheap Last Epoch Gold in u4gm, please follow u4gm.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[Last Epoch, the action RPG developed by Eleventh Hour Games, boasts a deep and complex crafting system. Among its many intricacies are Resonances, a crucial element for upgrading your gear and pushing your build to its limits. Understanding Golden and Obsidian Resonances is paramount to mastering the crafting nuances of Last Epoch.<br />
<br />
What are Resonances in Last Epoch?<br />
<br />
Resonances are crafting materials in Last Epoch that play a key role in upgrading the tier of your item's affixes. Affixes are the magical properties that grant bonuses to your character, such as increased health, damage, or elemental resistances. Each affix has a tier ranging from 1 to 5, with higher tiers providing stronger benefits. Resonances are the engine driving this progression.<br />
<br />
Golden Resonance: Focusing on Specific Affix Types<br />
<br />
Golden Resonances are specialized crafting materials primarily used to target specific categories of affixes on your equipment. They are invaluable for players looking to fine-tune their gear to complement their particular build.<br />
<br />
What Golden Resonance Does: When used in the Forge, Golden Resonance grants a significantly higher chance to increase the tier of a specific type of affix while decreasing the chance for other types.<br />
When to Use Golden Resonance: The ideal time to use Golden Resonances is when you are trying to upgrade a specific affix category on an item that already has several affixes you want to keep. For example, if you have a chest piece with desirable health, resistance, and armor affixes, but want to improve the health affix further, applying a Golden Resonance focused on health will increase your chances of success without risking the other affixes as much.<br />
How to Obtain Golden Resonance: Golden Resonances are typically obtained as drops from enemies or rewards from specific activities within Last Epoch. Certain areas or enemy types might have a higher drop rate for specific Golden Resonances. Keep an eye on community resources and guides as the game evolves to identify the most efficient farming methods.<br />
Obsidian Resonance: Risk and Reward for High-Tier Affixes<br />
<br />
Obsidian Resonances offer a high-risk, high-reward approach to crafting. They are specifically designed to target higher-tier affixes, those already at Tier 4 or 5, offering a significant boost in upgrade chance but with a notable downside.<br />
<br />
What Obsidian Resonance Does: Obsidian Resonance significantly increases the chance of improving a Tier 4 or Tier 5 affix on an item. However, along with this increased chance comes the risk of downgrading other affixes present on the item.<br />
When to Use Obsidian Resonance: Obsidian Resonances are best used on items where you absolutely need to upgrade a specific Tier 4 or Tier 5 affix, and you are willing to risk the potential loss of progress on other affixes to achieve that goal. This is typically a strategy employed late in the endgame when you are trying to perfect a near-perfect piece of gear. Using Obsidian Resonance carelessly could lead to a major setback, so caution is advised.<br />
How to Obtain Obsidian Resonance: Similar to Golden Resonances, Obsidian Resonances are usually found as drops from enemies or through specific endgame activities. Due to their powerful effect, they are generally rarer than other types of Resonances. Consider that obtaining Last Epoch Gold could allow you to simply purchase these Resonances and attempt crafting.<br />
<br />
Strategic Use of Resonances<br />
<br />
Mastering the use of Resonances is key to crafting powerful and optimized gear in Last Epoch. Don't be afraid to experiment and learn through trial and error. Here are some general tips:<br />
<br />
Plan Your Crafting: Prior to utilizing any Resonance, reflect on the affixes you wish to enhance and the associated risks involved.<br />
Start with Common Resonances: Employ common Resonances to elevate affixes to Tier 3 or 4 before contemplating the use of Golden or Obsidian Resonances.<br />
Utilize Golden Resonance for Targeted Upgrades: Apply Golden Resonance when you have particular affix categories that you aim to improve.<br />
Use Obsidian Resonance Sparingly: Reserve the use of Obsidian Resonance for instances where you are prepared to accept the risk of downgrading other affixes in exchange for the possibility of a substantial upgrade.<br />
Consider the Cost: Take into account the expense of obtaining the Resonances. At times, it may prove more effective to simply locate or purchase a new item rather than attempting to refine an existing one.<br />
Consult Resources: The Last Epoch community is abundant with seasoned players who share their crafting techniques and insights. Make use of these resources to gain knowledge from others.<br />
<br />
By understanding the nuances of Golden and Obsidian Resonances, you can significantly improve your crafting efficiency and create powerful gear that will help you conquer the challenges of Last Epoch. <br />
<br />
Safe and cheap Last Epoch Gold in u4gm, please follow u4gm.]]></content:encoded>
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